| Feeding |
Feeding your reef tank is one of the rewards you get for all that effort you put into it. Feeding allows you to interact with your tank inhabitants and it is also a good time to look for any signs of problems. A loss of appetite is often a sign of an ailing specimen.
How much to feed is an important consideration. Feeding is the main way that nutrients enter the tank, so some people prefer to feed minimal amounts to keep the tank as nutrient poor as possible to reduce the chance of problems that excess nutrients can cause, such as increased nitrate levels, algae growth, etc. They might only feed the tank a couple of times a week. A well setup reef tank with adequate protein skimming, live rock and a 2" or deeper sand bed can handle a higher level of feeding without any problems. I prefer to feed once a day in an amount that can be consumed within a couple of minutes. Once a week or so, I will feed more to ensure that everyone in the tank gets an occasional bite to eat. I also feed some of my LPS corals once a week. When starting out, it is always better to under feed than to over feed. If you do increase your feeding, do it slowly so that the tank ecosystem can modify itself to handle the increased nutrient load. Also keep in mind that some fish, such as herbivorous tangs, will get a portion of their nutrition by grazing off the live rock. Keeping them slightly hungry helps to encourage them to keep problem type algae in check.
Types of food fall into the following basic categories:
| Phytoplankton - Smallest available food which is comprised of microscopic algae. A common example is DT's Marine Phytoplankton. Utilized by filter feeding organisms. | |
| Zooplankton - Very small (but larger than phytoplankton) food which is composed primarily of juvenile forms of crustaceans. A common example is newly hatched brine shrimp. Utilized by filter feeding organisms and small polyps such as might be found on SPS corals | |
| Meaty foods - include animal based foods large enough to be taken by fish or fed to larger invertebrates. Examples include adult brine shrimp or chopped up shrimp.. | |
| Vegetable foods - Include marine algae such as Nori and are used for feeding herbivorous fish. | |
| Food additives - Are added to other foods to increase their food value. A common example is Selcon. |
Fish
The best advice when feeding fish is to offer a varied diet. There is no such thing as a perfect food and by feeding a variety of foodstuffs, it helps to ensure that all the nutritional requirements of all the fish in the tank are being met. It also provides the fish with some variety in their lives. Some fish are mainly herbivores and others are carnivores and the mix should address the nutritional requirements of both. Below are some of the most common foods.
| Diced seafood (shrimp/clams/scallops/squid/etc.) can be served raw after being cut into appropriate sized pieces | |
| Brine shrimp (live or frozen) are eagerly eaten by virtually all fish. Nutritional value is fairly low, so it should not be overfed. | |
| Bloodworms (frozen) are eagerly eaten by most fish and have a little more nutrition than brine shrimp | |
| Fish eggs (fresh/frozen) are a treat that many fish enjoy, but should not be overfed due to the high fat content. You should not use eggs that have been processed in any fashion such as fishing eggs or caviar. | |
| Silversides (frozen) are small thin fish that are good for feeding larger fish and invertebrates. | |
| Some frozen prepared foods, such as those from Ocean Nutrition, are excellent. They provide mixtures of several different ingredients and have a number of versions. Formula One is the main course and I highly recommend it as a staple of your feeding program. | |
| Dry flake foods. A good brand such as O.S.I. Marine Flake food is a good supplemental food, but should not be overused because it is so easy to use. | |
| Vegetable foods for herbivores such as Nori seaweed. Some people feed romaine lettuce and similar foods, by I am doubtful of the nutritional value for the fish and do not recommend them. |
Clams
Almost all clams kept in the reef tank are member of the Tridacna family. These are all photosynthetic and require no feeding. Flame scallops and oysters are also sometimes sold. These are not recommended in a reef tank due to their feeding habits, but if they are kept their requirements are the same as filter feeders below.
Filter Feeders
Filter feeders are composed of any animals that feed by filtering water through their body or appendages to obtain the microscopic particles that are suspended in the water. Common filter feeders include sponges, feather duster worms and flame scallops. Some can make a decent living by filtering the normal tank water and in fact will sprout up from the live rock with no encouragement. Others require, and all will do better, when additional microscopic food is provided such as phytoplankton. Phytoplankton are microscopic plants that live suspended in the water (green algae water). A common type used by hobbyists is called DT's Marine Phytoplankton and is available commercially. This is a live culture which has the benefit that it does not pollute the water. Another additive popular with many hobbyists is Selcon. There are many filter feeder formulas sold in local LFS, but the hobbyist has to be wary as many are nutrient rich mixtures of dubious value that can easily over-tax the biological filtration of the tank. Generally it is best to steer clear of any filter feeding invertebrates that require specific feeding if you do not want to mess with providing phytoplankton.
Mobile Invertebrates
Shrimp, crabs, brittle stars and similar mobile invertebrates will take the same meaty foods that are offered to fish. It is good to try to target feed them at least once a week. This also helps to ensure that they don't get too aggressive with their tank mates.
LPS corals
LPS corals are photosynthetic and will survive and grow with no feeding, but many seem to do better with occasional feedings. Most LPS corals, such as a bubble corals, open brain corals, elegance corals, etc. will take small chunks of shrimp or other meaty foods that are feed to the fish such as Formula One. Feeding once a week seems to be about the optimum frequency. There are a few corals, such as the bright orange sun coral, that are non-photosynthetic and require targeted feeding to stay healthy.
SPS corals
SPS corals never require feeding. They are all photosynthetic and live off the light. In the wild, they partake of zooplankton and some hobbyists like to try to simulate this natural food, but it is unnecessary and the fine food particles can cause a high load on the system.
Soft Corals
Soft corals are mostly photosynthetic. Large polyp types, such as button polyps can be fed small items such as brine shrimp, but it is not necessary. Small polyp types, such as Sinularia, do not take any known foods, but may benefit from very small zooplankton type foods such as would benefit SPS corals. There are some soft corals, such as carnation corals that are non-photosynthetic and require targeted feeding of small food. These types of corals can be difficult to keep unless the hobbyist is willing to spend the time taking care of their nutritional needs.
Food additives
There are some nutritional supplements that can be added to foods to improve their food value. Probably the best known is Selcon by American Marine Inc. This liquid product provides fatty acids and vitamins. Foods, such as brine shrimp can be soaked in it to increase its nutritional value before feeding to fish. The solution can also added to the water to benefit filter feeding invertebrates. Any filter feeding type supplement use should be monitored to ensure that its use does not increase algae growth. If so, the dosage should be reduced.
Below are some typical foods suitable for feeding the reef.
Here is a suggestion that you might find useful for smaller tanks. While looking for a way
to make it easy for my tank sitter to feed my tank the variety of foods they are
use too while making it easy on the sitter, I hit on the follow idea. It
works so well that I use it myself to make my life a little easier and give my
tank a better selection at the same time.
Now when I feed the fish, I just pop a cube or two and put them into the tank. I am feeding a number of different foods at once (usually 4 or 5) and the fish get a better variety and I have less work to do for each feeding. Now that I have larger tanks, I don't bother with this method, but it is useful for smaller tanks.
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Good Reading
Necessary Nutrition, Foods and Supplements, A Preliminary Investigation
by: Ronald L. Shimek
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